FAQ’s and Myths

Appointment times will vary depending on the selected service and condition of the coat of the pet. On average, for grooms, please allow between 60 minutes to 90 minutes per pet. Your groomer will be happy to quote you an approximate time at drop off.

The booking process may vary depending on how you request your appointment.

ONLINE BOOKINGS start with you selecting the service you require. You will then be directed to a calendar – select the best time that works for you, and if applicable you may be asked to select your preferred groomer.

From there, you will fill out a request form with your contact information and information about your pet. The more information you provide us with.. the better! Once you have filled out the form to the best of your ability, you can then submit your request.

Please note that you may NOT receive the requested time or date! This is to check your best availability. A spot around your request may be open, though a representative will contact you to confirm the best time and date for both you and the groomer!

PHONE BOOKINGS require you to submit your first and last name, contact information, availability, information about your pet(s), and what services you are looking for. We will then determine the best time and date for both you and our groomers!

If you are looking for a Mobile Spa appointment, we may need to collect your information, and map out current appointments. Within 24-48 hours, we will determine when the mobile groomers are free and in your area and contact you with the next available spot!

Please note that if we end up missing you and having to leave a voicemail, we are not responsible for appointments that may book up in the meantime. We require confirmations for all appointments.

Get a picture! It could be off the internet, off a previous groom, a friend’s pooch, you name it! If you are unsure how to explain your dog’s, photos are a great way to give our groomers a visual. We always want you to be pleased with our results.

​It is recommended to get your dog groomed every 6-8 weeks, depending on the condition of your dog’s coat. Getting groomed too little can result in painful matting, so it is essential to get your dog on a regular routine!

For a canine nail trim, we recommend every 2-4 weeks, or at least once a month depending on the nails. Some dogs may not require a nail trimming as often.

Cat nails are recommended to get clipped at least once a month, whereas kittens would be more!

No. Dry bath products are not effective. They do not do anything to get your pet clean or aid the skin to not be greasy. In fact, these products add to the grease and dirt in your pet’s coat and will worsen matting!

All shampoos and equipment are high-end professional-grade grooming equipment and products. Do not hesitate to ask our groomers about our products and do let us know if either you or your pup have any allergies or sensitivities.

Absolutely NOT!!! This is extremely painful for the animal to have a groomer rip out the mats with a comb. It is also not effective in the elimination of the matting. The skin will still be greasy and therefore the pet will continue to mat quickly.

In cats, a degreasing bath and blow dry eliminates minor mats often without combing them out at all. Severe matting however is only solved by the shaving of the areas in addition to a degreasing bath to prevent matting when the hair grows back in.

A pelt fee is only charged in the event that a pet is extremely matted and must be shaved down due to its coat condition. Not only is this hard work on a groomers body and equipment, it is also hard on the pet to have painful matts removed. The skin may be tender or have injury caused by the matts and our groomers must work slowly and with care. Our groomers may need extra time depending on its severity. If need be, a pelt fee will be quoted prior to the start of the groom.

Purrdy Paws Pet Grooming Spa does not treat fleas.

Fleas are only treated effectively by products that can only be prescribed by a veterinarian. However, if fleas are found on your pet during the groom a flea bath will be given at an additional cost. Costs for extra time may also apply. The flea bath is only a temporary fix and will NOT solve the problem. See your veterinarian for a solution to fleas.

The younger the better! The earlier you start the grooming process, the easier it will be on your puppy. Our “Puppy Spa Package”* is the perfect introduction to the grooming process. It includes a bath with shampoo and conditioner, blow drying, comb-out, nail trimming, ear cleaning, cologne, and a bandana or bows!

Puppy can’t see? Add on a “Face, Foot and Sani Trim” to your Puppy Spa Package!

It is very important to handle your puppy in ways that will get them prepared for their groom. Play with your puppy’s feet, ears and tail, as well as holding the hair under the chin gently to get them used to gentle restraint. Start brushing at home as soon as you can to prevent minor tangles and to get him/her used to the brush. These steps are important for both short-haired and long-haired dogs!

If you find that they are resistant to being brushed, positive reinforcement is key! Whether it be a quick play with a toy or a yummy treat, praising your puppy when he/she cooperates is extremely important. You may also bring your puppy in to see us for brushing in-between grooms.

We always recommend a bath or groom every 8 weeks. Keeping your puppy on a grooming schedule will not only ensure that he/she will always be in tip-top condition, but also that he/she will continue to become accustomed to the process of grooming.

It is up to you!

We recommend coming in for a Puppy Spa Package once or twice to introduce your puppy to the grooming experience. Once completed, we can assess whether he/she is ready for a full grooming and you can decide when to book!

Keeping your puppy brushed out at home will ensure that we can do the haircut you desire!

Yes! Keeping short-haired dogs clean and brushed will ensure their skin and coat stays healthy!

A mat is a collection of densely tangled hair caused by friction. When hair is not combed out, it begins to weave together, causing tangles. Tangles can collect more hair and cause mats. Once a mat forms, it can be difficult to remove.

If caught early enough, mats can be removed by gentle brushing. However, if the mats are more severe and tight to the skin, the safest way to remove them is to shave underneath. Mats should never be cut out with scissors!

Brushing daily at home along with regular grooming sessions to remove dead or shedding hair will prevent mats from forming and aerate the skin.

Matting can cause damage to your dog’s coat and skin. Matting can cut off the blood supply to extremities, and deny regular air circulation, causing irritation and bruising. If mats get wet and don’t dry properly, they can cause further irritation or even skin conditions. Depending on the severity of the matting, it can impede your dog’s movement!

It is very important to keep your double coated dog brushed, especially during heavy shedding through season changes, to prevent mats and impaction. The undercoat helps keep them cool in the summer by allowing cool air to circulate through the coat, and warm and dry in the winter. If it is not properly brushed and dead hair is not removed, it will block cool air and trap heat causing your dog to overheat. When mats need to be shaved, it exposes the skin causing overheating and sunburn.

Matting on a dog’s ear can cause a hematoma. Matting pulls on the skin of the ear reducing blood flow to the area. When the matting is removed, the rush of blood to that area causes the vessels to rupture and blood to pool inside the flap of the ear (usually at the tip).
Sometimes the blood can seep through the skin.

Pelting is severe matting, usually covering the whole body of the dog. Pelting often requires a full shave down, which can sometimes cause an itchy skin response.

Winter can be a hard time for matting. Dogs with longer fur can collect snow, causing tangles more easily due to the wet. If pre-existing mats get wet during the Winter it can cause extra discomfort to your dog. Many people think shaving their dog in the Winter will cause him/her to be cold, however if your dog is not double-coated, it will not make much of a difference. A short coat in good condition is more beneficial in those cold months than a long, matted coat.

Stop by our shop with your furry friend and one of our groomers would be happy to do a quick assessment of your dog and give you some grooming options!

Double coated dogs have two layers of fur. The undercoat (closest to the skin) is made up of fine, fluffy hair and is what sheds! This layer traps air and insulates the dog. It keeps them warm in the winter and cool in the summer.

The topcoat is made of tougher guard hairs that keep the undercoat dry and protect the skin from the sun and bug bites. Breeds such as Golden Retrievers, Pomeranians and Samoyeds are examples of double coated dogs.

Shaving a double coated dog entails removing their thick under coat. Doing so can impede their ability to stay cool and lead to sunburn in the sunny months. Removing the top guard hairs allows water to reach the skin, leaving it no natural way to stay warm and dry.

Sometimes it will.

Most commonly the undercoat grows in faster than the topcoat, leaving the dog with a soft, fuzzy coat which gives very minimal protection and causing the topcoat to mat into the undercoat. Some dogs may have patches that don’t grow back at all, or that don’t grow both types of coat layers. Older dogs are less likely to grow their coat back.

In medical situations it may be necessary to shave the coat or if the undercoat has become too matted to be combed out.

Unfortunately, double coated dogs do shed quite a bit, especially during season changes. However, shaving a double coated dog DOES NOT prevent them from shedding! Even when cut short, the undercoat is still intact (just much shorter than a natural coat) and will shed. It may be less noticeable because the hairs are smaller.

The best grooming option for a double coated dog is a bath and a blow out. A good shampoo will remove dirt and oil from the pores allowing the dead hair to loosen. Conditioning is important to rehdrate the skin to avoid dandruff. Most grooming salons have a high velocity dryer that will blow out shedding undercoats.
Regular brushing is important to remove shedding under coat and properly prepare for seasonal coat changes.

This is simply not true. Even some of the very difficult felines are able to be groomed without the use of sedatives with proper cat handling techniques. Some felines even suffer higher anxiety while under the influence of sedative which can make grooming more difficult for the groomer and less safe for kitty. CFMG’s want kitty to realize there is nothing to fear during the grooming process.

(Of course there will always be an exception to the rule and in those extreme cases a sedative or even veterinary medical observation/assistance may be required.)

A dog’s coat is not an insulator but rather a heat regulator. This means a dog’s coat, no matter how thick, will keep him warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer all on its own! Taking away a dogs coat can expose sensitive skin to the environment and may cause more harm than good.

Mats will not keep a pet warmer and instead prevents much needed air from getting to the animals skin. This can cause bacteria and moisture to be trapped which can lead to hot spots and other painful skin conditions. A long coat can be warming in the winter for your pet providing it stays clean and free of tangles.

It is true a lot of coat quality can be attributed to genetics, however sometimes a dull or sparse coat may be a warning sign of illness in your furry companion. Just like a human’s hair quality can be largely effected by environment, medical and diet issues. Doing your research and keeping your friend on a high quality diet can give that dull coat a drastic turn around on appearance and texture.

Truth is ALL animals shed, they just may shed in different ways. Some drop hair like humans, others’ undercoat may get stuck in the guard hairs so it goes relatively unnoticed. Short-haired dogs and cats can sometimes be the worst shedders of all!

“Hypoallergenic”? The real source of allergens is skin dander and saliva, and since all animals have skin, no pet is guaranteed hypoallergenic, although some allergic people may react more or less to dander from particular pets or breeds.

This may be one of the largest misconceptions in both the canine and feline world of grooming.

Nail trimming and grooming is all part of keeping our pets clean and healthy. Pets don’t understand that without grooming they will develop painful mats or skin conditions or that overgrown nails are painful to walk on. Getting your pet on a regular grooming schedule is crucial to his wellbeing and longevity. A groom that has no painful issues to address makes for a much better grooming process for your reluctant pet and an easier time to build trust with the groomer. Before you know it, a reluctant pet will be looking forward to his spa days!

Many people truly believe that cats actually groom themselves! When you think of cats “grooming themselves” you are probably associating that to the licking that they do over their entire bodies. All the cats are doing is “licking” along with ingesting loose hair that will later be found around your home in the form of a hairball or two. All the cat is doing by licking is essentially coating itself in saliva that contains a protein called Fel D-1 which is possibly the largest cause of “cat allergies” in humans. No cat licking saliva on itself will ever make it “clean”, eliminate mats or dandruff or decrease shedding. In fact, the cat acting in this manner will actually add to the problems by creating more dander in the skin and causing the other issues such as matting and dandruff to worsen. The only problem eliminating grooming is grooming performed by a CFMG and NOT the feline with the problems!